Sunday, March 18, 2007

Sagarmatha-bound

This past week in Kathmandu involved many lessons on doing research, in general and particular to Nepal. One: call to confirm appointments - one man I was supposed to reach didn't happen to be at the World Wildlife Fund after a twenty minute bike ride over there. And then I found out he probably wasn't the best person to talk to anyway! Two: be flexible and patient. It's Nepal. Things run on Nepali time. Three: persistence is key. And a sense of humor. One day things seem utterly overwhelming, and the next I'm overjoyed about all the possibilities for my project and thesis research. It's exciting and difficult and an amazing experience all at once.
Finally got up the nerve to borrow a bike and helmet from SIT and biked home and to and from Thamel with a few friends. With the cars, buses, taxis, motorcycles, and rickshaws, plus the very lax traffic laws (I think the most important traffic signal, if you can call it that, in Nepal is the horn), it was a bit like an obstacle course and incredibly exhilarating. Fast and dusty and fun! Especially the last little, steep downhill to my house, after the corner with the huge tree growing up and around a tiny temple. The tree temple is beyond beautiful, and one of my favorite parts of the walk to school every day.
But barely a week back in Kathmandu, and we're about to leave again! Tomorrow we fly to Lukla, and then we have ten days up in the Solo-Khumbu region. The Everest region. We'll be trekking for several days, living with Sherpa families for five days, and visiting a monastery (where they recently saw a snow leopard). On Friday, an environmentalist at the Kathmandu Environmental Education Project showed us a slideshow about the Khumbu. At one point, a photo of the Tengboche monastery appeared on the screen: a tiny building on a ridgeline against a towering and gorgeous snow-covered peak. We had been a little antsy during the presentation, but at that point we all sat up, started smiling and laughing, and couldn't stop. Because we're going up into the Himalayas - it feels kind of like a dream.

3 comments:

Unknown said...

You'll enjoy your journey more if you have an in depth understanding of the Sherpa culture in the region.
To learn more about the Sherpa tribe that makes climbing Everest possible, read Beyond the Summit by Linda LeBlanc. Details of Sherpa culture and religion are interwoven in a tale of romance and high adventure. The story has something for everyone: a love affair between an American journalist and Sherpa guide, conflict between generations as the modern world challenges centuries of tradition, an expedition from the porter's point of view.

Below are selections from reviews. To read the complete ones and excerpts go to www.beyondthesummit-novel.com

Beyond the Summit, is the rare gem that shows us the triumphs and challenges of a major climb from the porter’s point of view. The love of two people from diverse cultures is the fiery centerpiece of a novel that leads its readers through harshly beautiful and highly dangerous territory to the roof of the world. Malcolm Campbell, book reviewer

A gripping, gut-twisting expedition through the eyes of a porter reveals the heart and soul of Sherpas living in the shadows of Everest. EverestNews.com

A hard-hitting blend of adventure and romance which deserves a spot in any serious fiction collection. Midwest Book Review

LeBlanc is equally adept at describing complex, elusive emotions and the beautiful, terrifying aspect of the Himalayan Mountains. Boulder Daily Camera

LeBlanc's vivid description of the Himalayas and the climbing culture makes this a powerful read. Rocky Mt News Pick of the Week

A rich adventure into the heart of the Himalayan Kingdom. Fantastic story-telling from one who has been there. USABookNews.com

This is the book to read before you embark on your pilgrimage to Nepal. The author knows and loves the people and the country, and makes you feel the cold thin air, the hard rocks of the mountains, the tough life of the Sherpa guides, and you learn to love them too. This is a higly literate, but also very readable book. Highly recommended."
-- John (college professor)

Memorable characters and harrowing encounters with the mountains keep the action moving with a vibrant balance of vivid description and dialogue. Literary Cafe Host, Healdsburg, CA

This superbly-crafted novel will land you in a world of unimaginable beauty, adventure, and romance. The love story will keep you awake at night with its vibrant tension and deep rich longing. Wick Downing, author of nine novels

The book is available from amazon.com, chesslerbooks.com, Barnes & Noble and Borders Stores, and the web site for an autographed copy.

Anonymous said...

Loved your latest entry: have a great trip. Watch out for the Yeti, Allegra!
Miss you, Tom

aguelda said...

Happy Birthday Allegra...I wrote you on Facebook but wasn't sure if you were reading it regularly. It sounds like you are having an AMAZING time and I am so happy for you and very jealous. I think I grinned from ear to ear when I read about you bathing with elephants, how INCREDIBLE?! I just thought I would say hi. I am assuming you will not be returning to camp this summer, seeing as you are there. Me either, I got an internship at home. Anyway, continue to enjoy yourself in Nepal, be careful and keep writing! :)

-Aimee (from CWW)